It’s rare that I experience racism or dangerous situations that could lead to violence here in Taipei. I saw a bit more of that when I lived across the river in another part of the county, but my life in central Taipei had been fairly calm until today.
Reality hit me twice today.
I was walking my little boy (he’s 2) over to the park this morning around nine. We were on the street in front of my house when a van drove by with a man behind the wheel and a woman in the passnger seat. I glanced over and saw the woman look at me son, look at me, and then she stuck her whole arm out the window and flipped us off. I was shocked. What was her problem?It unnerved me all morning, but that was nothing compared to what was to come.
In the afternoon, I took my boy to a new shopping center in the Wan Hua district to buy some things. I knew the Wan Hua district was the old hooker and drug area 25 years ago. We had gone to one of the bigger parks in Taipei located in that district about two weeks ago. We got a lot of hard stares when we were there. Many of the people seemed hostile to a foreigner carrying around a little mixed child, and Nicholas couldn’t wait to leave. he wanted me to carry him the whole time. But we were going in a cab, so I didn’t think anything of going back to this area.
I bought lots of stuff there, more than I expected. I had a large shoulder bag filled with stuff, as was my backpack. I also had two items that wouldn’t fit in the bags plus my little boy on my lap. We found a cab and proceded to come home. The cab driver wanted to know where we wanted to go and I gave him the intersection near our house by specifying the two streets. He then wanted to know which of the two streets would be better to go. I had no idea because I wasn’t sure where we were. He then loudly demanded to know why I didn’t know. My hackles raised at this.
(In Chinese)
“Either is okay. Near ___ Univeristy, do you know?”
“YES, I KNOW! DO YOU KNOW? WHAT SECTION? WHAT STREET NUMBER? DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT I’M SAYING TO YOU?”
The taxi driver was yelling this at me. I lost my ability to speak Chinese because I was about to go ballistic. I haltingly told him to just drive the car.
I wanted to tell him to stop the car immediately, but I could tell that if I got out without paying (no way I was going to pay this creep) that we would get into a fight. He was really aggitated. But my hands were totally full and I couldn’t think of how to protect my son and fight this guy at the same time. So I sat there and fumed until we got home.
Two things about these incidents today really bother me.
One, I don’t think it was a coincidence that my little boy was with me when this stuff happened. I think there was some pretty strong racism going on, especially in the first incident. There was no reason to flip us off.
The number of foreigners and mixed children in Taiwan is growing beyond belief. I’ve been told by many of my teachers that 25% of Taiwan’s kids now in the first few grades of elementary school are mixed kids. The problems that this will create in a previously non-mixed society with be enormous.
Second, neither of these people were deterred in anyway by the fact that my boy was there with me. The nutbag taxi driver didn’t care a bit if he upset my son. If I had gotten out of the car, I’m 100% positive he would have come after us. Would he have hurt my son?
Needless to say, after today I’m thinking of carrying a weapon when I take my boy out.
Is Taiwan getting more violent? I shudder to think that.
15 responses so far ↓
1 Hermann // Mar 31, 2007 at 11:36 am
Yeah, it is undenyable. Since 1983 and now, I have spent some 13 years here, 4 in Taibei, 9 down south. With politics changing, hatred to non-Taiwanese started to grow. Also Thais, Philippinos or Indonesian, even Tibetans and mainland Chinese are not welcome anymore as we all used to be.
When I first arrived I had a certain view of Jiang Kaishek and his Guomingdang, of which people used to warn me, not to talk aloud. This view is politically correct nowadays, but there was some really bad agitation of politicians who split society rather deep: Taiwanese (in fact, only 12 tribes of aborigines could call themselfs like this), who came from mainland since the 16th century, on one side, mainlanders arrived after the 2nd wolrd war and are put with all foreigners on the other side.
Really bad, and maybe even worse down south. But I always tell them, that it’s me teaching their kids at university and it’s their education ministry which call me to do so.
But I’m sure this will change again.
Anyway, I also have some nice surprise in my car, for the first taxi driver, whom I cannot neutralise in an unviolent way, and then we will see what I can transfer from training to selfdefense.
2 baichi // Mar 31, 2007 at 4:18 pm
I don’t know about Taiwan, but on the mainland, people have a really strong racist thinking. Not in the meaning of being fascists by definition… for them, ethnics and races are very important categories for dealing with people. I remember how surprised one chinese girl was when I told her in german you cannot call a kid of mixed ethnics ‘half breed’.
Of course, it could be that Taiwan did not get any more violent, only now you can see how many people are stuck in this way of thinking. I mean, when you’re on your own maybe people don’t mind, because they think you’re a tourist or someone working in Taiwan for a short time. With a kid, it means you live there, and you married a local woman (god forbid! :-/ ). Sou you become exposed to their retarded world view.
3 Casey // Mar 31, 2007 at 5:46 pm
Wow, this is really disturbing… I know the Chinese and Taiwanese are racist, but I generally found that they at least liked white people and seemed in general to be very fond of mixed babies, whom they find “glamorous” and “cute.” To think then, that when the white parent of one of these mixed babies is seen walking around with him that that would actually upset people is…upseting.
Of course, like Baichi said, it might be the implication that you’re putting down roots in their community rather than just passing through which upsets them…but that’s equally unnaceptable and disturbing. It also makes their friendliness to foreigners seem so hypocritical. Of course, it’s just a minority (and cab drivers in Taiwan seem to always feel it’s their right to be a social critic, I’ve noticed), but still, the underlying problem of the deep-seated sense that people who don’t look Chinese can never be part of a Chinese community has got to go.
People often describe America as a country with race problems, but considering the sheer diversity of America, I think we actually are outstandingly tolerant. I really can’t imagine anyone taking offence to a Chinese man being married to a white woman in all but the most rural backwaters–certainly not in NYC, which is equivalent to Taipei in the scale of the country.
Definitely makes you worry about the future of these countries where intolerance is allowed to go unnoticed just because the society has heretofor been so homogenous. Then again, maybe it’s people like you and your family who’ll ultimately help bring the Chinese kicking and screaming into the 21st century in terms of social consciousness.
4 silkreeling // Mar 31, 2007 at 5:52 pm
this happens everywhere, where there are foreigners.
just be careful.
5 chessman71 // Mar 31, 2007 at 6:16 pm
Good points guys. I hadn’t thought of some of that. I’m in for a rough time, then. I’m very protective of my kids.
But yeah, the idea that I’m putting down roots here and even the fact that I speak Chinese may be an issue. I’m not quite sure how I’m going to deal with this.
6 Hermann // Mar 31, 2007 at 8:45 pm
I don’t think speaking Chinese is the problem, at least here in the South, many already refuse to talk Guoyu, perfering Minanhua.
What really bothers me is the fact that just a week ago, some students founded a nationalist Taiwan group, with the aim of “exploring the good sides of Adolf Hilter”. The Jewish representative and also we Gemans got nervously active, me in my classes, explaining again what this monster had done, what my SS grandfather had done to his sons, my father.
So Caseys point of a “deep-seated sense that people who don’t look Chinese can never be part of a Chinese community has got to go” is totally right and on the mark, even here it is a little Taiwanese in colour.
7 Dojo Rat // Apr 1, 2007 at 12:01 am
Sorry to hear about the trouble.
No matter where we are, protecting the kids is most important, even to the point of avoiding a fight.
Out of curiousity, if you were to carry a weapon, what would you choose? What is allowed?
8 Q // Apr 1, 2007 at 1:11 am
That sounds more like an exception than the rule here in Taipei, though I have to admit I don’t go around town too much. There are assholes everywhere and basically being racist is just another excuse for lousy behavior. The US (I guess I can only count SF since I haven’t been to too many places) wasn’t any better, at least in my own experience. I remember reading in the papers that Asians were specifically targeted by muggers because they expected them to carry more cash. As for the taxi drivers here, you must know like 50% of them are/were criminals. When I heard this I thought it was a joke but I asked my uncle who used to drive a cab and he confirmed it. These guys are rude to a lot of people, not just to foreigners. Hell, one of our lecturer was a psychologist and he talked about a woman passenger that was raped by her cab driver. One of my military service group member got into a lame argument w/ a taxi driver and the driver actually came to our “camp” w/ a few other taxi drivers looking for him. I’m not trying to say that racism is ok, just that what you experienced does not sound much worse than what the natives get. Racism sucks ass, but I think Taipei is safer than a lot of places.
9 Hermann // Apr 1, 2007 at 9:56 am
Yeah, it’s relatively safe, we still love the place, and our wifes, kids, bigger families and friends, of course.
But there is a subtle change to be noticed.
Just hope that it will change back the other direction, before we loose patienence.
And as a German living here, it is also difficult to explain hatred of foreigners back home, so I understand your position, Q.
10 chenquestion // Apr 1, 2007 at 11:37 am
Last time I visited the Philippines, we brought Kubotans and pepper spray. But ended up not relying on them for anything, it was a bit of a gesture. I’m no street tough, and, I am very wary of guns, though I’ve handled and fired them. Mostly I end up relying on well-known tactics of attitude and comportment while away from home; and try not to look to robbery or kidnap bait.
I once had a disagreement with an incompetent cabbie in Manila and I was surprised at how fast it got out of hand. My hotel doorman tried to mediate, but sided with the driver and I finally shut up and paid.
If I ever live in Asia as I hope to one day, I know that personal/family security will always need to be in mind. I just hope it won’t be a daily trial. None of us wants to live that way, in our native land or adopted land.
11 cmc // Apr 1, 2007 at 11:49 am
I’m sorry to hear of your bad experience the other day. As I wasn’t there I can only guess, but after the incident with the obnoxious woman in the truck, you were probably more likely to read meanings into strangers’ stares. As for taxi drivers; what can I say. You met an ignorant one. I’ve argued with so many I’ve lost count. I’ve met at least an equal number of extremely good ones.
Racism and other bad behavior are everywhere where people are. However, I’m not sure carrying a weapon is a good idea. Usually Taiwan is still a safe place.
I do agree with some of the above comments on the changes to society here. It is changing and changes bring discomfort. The last large influx of people caused huge problems. I expect the latest wave of newcomers will bring less problems. Unlike the old soldiers we come in peace and are unarmed.
12 Chris Bates // Apr 1, 2007 at 12:52 pm
Some comments from the Culture Shock Taiwan book deal the way Taiwanese Chinese view foreigners.
“”We had finished our warm-ups and basic drills when a little boy, about 5 years old who had been looking at me, came over to stare at my arms. Without a word or a second thought, he pinched up a mass of my arm hair and tore it out, then stared closely at the blonde fuzz in his fingers. Without a word or second thought, he walked off.”
-October 15, 1976 in a martial arts class in Taichung, Chris’ diary.
How do Taiwanese perceive foreigners
Pride in their Middle Kingdom heritage directly influences how Taiwanese perceive foreigners. Ignore the fact that most Taiwanese are descended from farmers from Fujyan during one of its poorest times, ignore the fact that the major achievements associated with Chinese culture were not accomplished by the people of Fujyan. It matters not. The indoctrination of the populace by the educational system of their Chineseness, serving the purpose of strengthening the ties to Mainland China for eventual reunification, and from the family inculcates them with a sense of cultural superiority. This colors how they perceive all others from outside the Middle Kingdom.
A tall, mustachioed American conversant in Chinese language and mores attended a cocktail party. He entered into a conversation with the wife of a Taiwanese diplomat; a college educated, internationally travelled woman. She began to discuss how much further evolved the Chinese races are, as evidenced in their relative lack of body hair and smaller delicate features. He proceeded to inform her of several ethnic, historic and cultural facts in support of the premise that her view was rubbish. Both people certainly left the encounter maintaining their original views.
Once your ear is trained and tuned to Mandarin, you may hear others call you various names. These epithets are used frequently and loosely. They do not denote bigotry in the racial hatred sense, but they are used condescendingly, if unconsciously. All cultures create terms to demean or belittle that which they do not understand or with which they are not comfortable. Chinese in Taiwan are no different.
Epithets: What They See is What You Get
LaoWai is the least offensive, perhaps endearing, term. It merely means “old foreigner”. Come to think of it, most Westerners do tend to comment that the Taiwanese look younger than their years, perhaps the inverse is true of Westerners. Another less benign term which is frequently translated into English as foreign devil is YangGwei. Westerners were very definitely a plague on the Ching emperor during which time this appellation came into use.
Then there are the physically descriptive terms. DaBiDz is common and means Big Nose. This is given to Westerners with typically large probiscus. If you watch Mark Salzman’s autobiographical movie “Iron & Silk” about his experience teaching English and training martial art in China you will notice the large plaster cast nose he has attached to his dormitory room door. Touche. The final epithet is AngMo as used in Taiwanese dialect and means Red Beards. This alludes to Westerner’s relatively hirsute bodies.
These terms describe outward appearance. They tell us what Taiwanese find conspicuous about foreigners. But you are blonde, you protest. Doesn’t matter, you are still an AngMo. A foreigner’s hairiness is a source of much condescension. They see it related to one’s general level of evolution, body odor, neatness, and civility. Remaining clean shaven and well groomed will improve their impression of you. This also relates to women’s leg and underarm hair.
Though not singled out with its own epithet (that we are aware of) size is also a major concern of Taiwanese relating to foreigners. Their impression of Westerners is that we are BIG. Big noses, big beards, big torsos, big bellied sometimes, otherwise big muscled, big boned, big limbed. In proper proportion, this might be attractive to the opposite sex (Taiwanese man to Western woman or vice versa), but it is intimidating to members of the same sex. In the West, it is a fact that the majority of Top 1000 company CEOs are over six feet tall. Size can be used at the sales meeting, cocktail party or in the boardroom. Size and success have a correlation. Not so in Taiwan. Many CEOs are five foot six inches+/-. The foreigner who is bigger than the average Taiwanese should be aware that his size may be making those around him uncomfortable. In keeping with the local preference for humility in projecting oneself, this person should make an effort to physically “bring himself down” to the level of the people s/he is addressing. Sittting with the person, rather than standing, or standing one step lower on the stairs to talk are some techniques you might use.
The above comments relate to Westerners in general, whose organizing capacity and modern technology the Chinese grudgingly accept were able to subjugate most of the world in the last century and bring the Middle Kingdom to its knees. What about brothers and sisters from the African continent? It is sad to report that many Taiwanese view black or more darkly colored people even more condescendlingly than they do the caucasian Westerner. It is generally felt that dark skin indicates a life of manual labor out in the sun. To avoid the stigma, Taiwanese farm women traditionally cover themselves from head to toe leaving only the eyes exposed to the sunlight. This despite the very hot and humid Summer growing season in Taiwan. They do not want to be tanned. Parasols are still popular. Beyond this consideration, it is held that the African peoples have nothing to contribute to China, unlike the Western barbarians who at least have technology, money and markets. Until recently, one of the most popular brands of toothpaste in Taiwan was “Darkie” and its yellow tube had a black man wearing a top hat and beaming a bright white smile. Under pressure from race relations groups, the English name of the product changed to Darlie, graphic designers utilized more negative space in the drawing to obscure whether the person was black or white, but, tellingly, the Mandarin name of the product remains HeiRenYaGau (Black Man Toothpaste).”
Be careful of taking on taxi drivers. I observed a motorcyclist knocked over by a cab. The angry cyclist got up and agressively opened the cab door to haul the cabbie out. The cabbie came out stabbing repeatedly into the cyclists abdomen with a screw driver.
Best just to chill out. As martial artists, we can handle the situation if it goes the distance. But our abilities and perspective should allow us to divert the cabbie’s rudeness. Better to state with firm friendliness. “Friend, you are the taxi driver, I am the passanger. I have told where I want to go. If you do not know the way, just say so.”
Then again, you could use the line a friend of mine used when he grew tired of his Taiwanese neighbors torturing their dog. He stormed over to the house to complain and it rapidly escalated to the point the neighbor was going to get physical. My friend said to him with cold calm “If you want to see a real foreign devil, just make a move.”
13 chessman71 // Apr 1, 2007 at 2:36 pm
Chris, wow that was quite a comment. I’m going to make that into a post if you don’t mind. It’ll be easier to read.
Everyone, please continue the discussion on the next post.
14 Formosa Neijia - Exploring Taiwan’s Martial Arts » Chris Bates on Taiwan, racism, and violence // Apr 1, 2007 at 2:39 pm
[...] Taiwan/Taipei getting more violent? [...]
15 William // Apr 3, 2007 at 3:06 am
Guys I have lived this attitude closer to home My Chinese wife and I used to live in Toronto, you might think that when you live in a country where they are the foreigners things will be OK, bu we used to get stares from chinese people when shopping in the different Chinatowns, even some comments were done mostly about me. I cant imagine how it is in China/Taiwan.
Good luck
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